Monday 14 August 2017

Buenos Aires

This is not a travel blog, but for the benefit of friends who haven't been to Buenos Aires and don't want to spend all their time dancing, here are some of the highlights of the place.

San Telmo

The old port area, though now a distance from the sea. Often thought of as the home of tango. Was seen as a bit dirty and dangerous, but now getting a bit touristy. We lived there for six weeks and loved it.

Lazy morning - San Telmo

Sunday Market - San Telmo

We generally spend a lot of time in San Telmo, even when we aren't living there. If you are just going to visit to see the sights, go on Sunday. The market extends all the way down Defensa (the main road towards the centre) right to Plaza del Mayo.


It gets very crowded. Watch for pickpockets.

There is lots of music and street performers there.

These guys performed outside our front door every Sunday evening

There is dancing in Plaza Dorrego after the fair. Free.


The Museum of Modern Art is in San Telmo and is well worth a visit. I also strongly recommend a meal (or several meals) at Desnivel.



Matadores

Go on Sunday when they celebrate Argentine traditions. Exhibitions of riding and folk dance. Free. The museum of Argentine history there is also worth a look.





La Boca

This is where the docks migrated to after San Telmo was left inland by the growing mud banks of the Plate. There is still some port activity associated with the area, but not much. It's now a decidedly dodgy part of town, but the centre is very touristy indeed and very safe. It's probably compulsory to go there.





Puerto Madero

Like London's Docklands. Actually a commercial failure as a docks, but now a beautiful place to have a coffee and wander aimlessly.



Churches

Lots, especially from the 18th century. Beautiful

Museums/galleries

There are loads, mostly free. It's worth getting the bus to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.

Cemeteries

Sounds a bit weird, but cemeteries are a big thing in Buenos Aires. If you do go to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, you'll be close to one of the most famous, the Recoleta Cemetary where Evita is buried.

Reserva Ecologica

People always talk about the lack of green space in Buenos Aires but there are lots of city parks, some very beautiful. On the edge of the Plate there is also a huge nature reserve, UNESCO listed and well worth a visit. Easily walkable from the town centre.

If you like wetlands, you can take a train to Tigre. (It's not far – we've skated there.) It's an area of river delta and worth an afternoon trip.



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